Your Home Doctor

Finding the Right Finish Basement Designs For You

There are many things you need to consider when deciding on finish basement designs. What room do you want and why? Here are some things you will need to think about when deciding on finish basement designs.

The first thing you need to do is know what you want to do with the basement, in terms of what kind of room you want to transform it into. There are many things you can change a basement into, and all of them will bring a great improvement to the value of your home.

You can use your basement for a home gym, a home office, a home theater, a home studio, a home bar, a family room or a guest room. Those are only some ideas.

A basement office is a fantastic area for starting your own business or doing your work at home – it’s usually away from everyone and no one will get in your way. This is an advantage that works with all the things mentioned above.

Something many other people are doing these days is using their basement for their library. The space can be used incredibly effectively with bookshelves and a nice table and reading chair in the middle. If you get proper lighting in and do a good job with the décor this would be an excellent room for this sort of thing. It can also then be used as a studying area for the kids in school.

The room could also be transformed into a play area for the younger kids, as they will then be able to make as much noise as they want without interfering with everyone else.

Once you’ve decided on the kind of room you want you obviously have to look at your budget. All of the above ideas can be done for very little cost, or they can be done at an enormous cost. The state your basement is in now will also have an effect on how much money you need to put in.

Once you know your budget you need to consider the décor of the room. Will you go for tiles or carpets? Tiles are usually better because basements can be very damp. Tiles with rugs works well, though. You might also want to consider vinyl flooring as well.

The kind of walling you need would depend on what look you want and what you want to do as well. Some walls absorb sound very well, and these would be very effective for a home studio, for instance. Others can make the basement look very much like an office and this may be what you would want for a home office.

It’s important to keep furniture in mind. Many people don’t consider the overall look and practicality of the room with regards to the furniture. For example, a home studio requires furniture that is comfortable and that would do a good job of concealing all the cabling that needs to be in the room. A lot of people don’t think about that.

Then it’s the real practicalities, such as finding a solution to getting rid of the moisture in the room and how to keep it dry. Also, you need to consider how to keep it warm. There are many solutions to this, such as heated mats or underfloor heating; plus the sub-floor and flooring you use will make a big difference with the moisture. You will need to research your options here.

You will have to do a lot of researching but it is hoped that this article serves a great way to get you started in deciding the rightfinish basement designs for you.

-article by Lee Andersons, EzineArticles.com

If you would like to speak to a basement remodeling and home theater installation specialist please contact Select Basement Waterproofing and Better Homes and Basements toll free at 877-548-3889 at your convenience.

Basement Floor Covering – Commercial Carpet Tiles Are the Answer

Basement floor covering is one of the last things you think about when finishing a basement. People tend to focus more on the structural designs first (for good reasons!) and then when the project is wrapping up, the items such as basement floor covering, paint and finishing touches are handled. That is normal and fine of course. The structural issues in a basement are a big deal obviously. However, when it comes to picking a floor covering for basements, your decision can be a wise or costly one. Moisture and mildew can ruin most floor coverings. Even worse, a flooded basement can bring a lot of headaches. If you use the right basement floor covering up front you can avoid some issues and even save money on your budget with the right deal. Commercial carpet squares and tiles have many advantages that make them a perfect choice for basement floor covering. There are 5 reasons why commercial carpet tile works great for basement flooring.

1. Most commercial carpet tiles have a hard, rubber like backing. This backing along with the yarn is not harmed by moisture, mold or mildew. In fact, most carpet tile backing systems have mold and mildew inhibitors built into the backing itself. This built in resistance to moisture, mold and mildew make commercial carpet tiles perfect for basement floor covering. Also, if your basement floods, the carpet tiles can be pulled up and put outside to dry. Once the commercial carpet squares are dry and the basement is dry, you can reinstall the tiles. One tip is to make sure you use the commercial carpet tiles with the hard, stiff backing. Some carpeting tiles come with integral cushion padding. When installing in a basement, this cushion backing can absorb moisture and is not a good option.

2. Commercial carpet tiles are very easy to install. You can use adhesive to glue them down, however the loose lay method is best in a basement. You usually can install the tiles tight enough to where an adhesive is not needed. If you don’t have to glue them down, pulling them up later if the basements floods will be much easier. This also makes tile replacement later very easy. In fact, if you don’t glue the commercial carpet squares and tiles down, you can pull them up and pressure wash them off if they ever become very soiled or stained.

3. Basement floor covering can see a lot of foot traffic if the garage is adjacent to the finished area. Commercial carpet squares are built to handle heavy traffic. These are the same commercial carpet squares that are installed in airports, hotels, restaurants, etc.

4. Commercial grade carpet tiles can be used to create unique looks on a room or area. Basement floor covering doesn’t have to be bland to be functional. A very popular option when using commercial carpet tiles is to use 2 or 3 colors to make checkerboard or contemporary designs. Not only does the use of several colors (contrasting colors do great) give the basement a designer look, but it hides the seams where the carpet tiles come together.

5. Carpeted, commercial grade tiles can be a very cheap basement floor covering if you hunt the deals down. Normally, carpet squares and tiles can be expensive, but you can find some wholesalers that sell carpet squares for $.89 per square foot or less. If you have a 10 ft by 200 ft finished area, that’s only $89 for the entire basement floor covering. By doing the installation yourself, you will save additional money over other flooring options as well.

-article by Eric M Dyer, EzineArticles.com

If you would like to speak to a basement remodeling and home theater installation specialist please contact Select Basement Waterproofing and Better Homes and Basements toll free at 877-548-3889 at your convenience.

Basement Wall Sealer – Saving You Money on Future Repairs

If you’ve noticed a white powdery substance on your basement walls, it may be time to check for water damage. The white powder is actually a discharge that if left unchecked, can easily spread and grow across weakened concrete over time. This is caused by water seepage; water reacts with the alkalinity of concrete and results in weakening, cracks, and crumbling apart from the inside. Any amount water can have this effect on your basement walls and depending on where you live, it’s a good practice to learn more about basement wall sealers.

What other effects does water have on basement walls? When water seeps through foundations and into a basement, it creates a humid and moist environment. Many homeowners try to combat this with dehumidifiers and air conditioners in an attempt to prevent the basement smells and vapors from making it into other areas of their house. A dehumidifier is only a temporary solution, although without one mold, mildew, and other substances can make their way into your home.

Most water that you encounter in your basement will likely be due to rainfall or snow melting. If your gutters become clogged with leaves or other debris, the water may fall from your roof and pool around the foundations of your home, easily seeping into your basement. Despite it’s solidity, concrete is porous to come extent, and becomes more so as it ages. Aging concrete allows more water to seep through, and the situation gradually worsens.

Basement wall sealers are particularly effective in preventing the seepage and dampness associated with water, and can serve as an effective preventative measure. This process both hardens and strengthens the concrete walls, reducing moisture and the possibility of cracking as well. Some can prevent mold growth on masonry block, pre-cast and poured interior concrete structures and crawl spaces, reducing contamination of fungi, eliminating odors, and minimizing allergies.



A basement wall sealer is effective in combating the dampness, rust, stains, musty odors, condensation, as well as slow water seepage and structural damage. Here are a few other tips to avoid a water-logged basement:

• Clean out your rain gutters regularly from leaves, debris, and snow.
• Grow grass instead of flowers and shrubs around your foundations to soak up moisture.
• Consider getting a sump pump to relieve water pressure.

• The most effective thing you can do to prevent basement moisture and problems is to invest in a basement wall sealer, as that’ll protect your home for a long time and save you money on possible basement repairs you’d encounter in the future.

-article by E. Ronchetti, EzineArticles.com

If you would like to speak to a basement remodeling and home theater installation specialist please contact Select Basement Waterproofing and Better Homes and Basements toll free at 877-548-3889 at your convenience.

Ideas for Fixing Leaking Basement
It’s common to see cracks in basement walls for any house that is older than two year due to drying shrinkage, thermal movement, and other causes. Other causes usually are minor and result in few problems. But over time, even minor cracks can grow larger and cause big headaches, such as loss of structural integrity or, more commonly, water leakage. Poured concrete foundations often crack simply because of settling. If the crack grows or the foundation wall is deflected, the advice of a structural engineer may be required.

Common areas for a shrinkage concrete crack to develop are under a basement window, in the middle of a long wall or where the foundation steps down. Once the concrete cracks it is possible for water to leak into a basement through the crack.
Several suggested methods are:

• The most effective is to perform an injection of polyurethane foam into the basement crack. Polyurethane foams are injected into the basement crack in a liquid form. This allows a gentle and slow filling process of the basement crack that will completely fill the crack. After a few minutes the polyurethane will begin to react with the water in the crack to begin foaming.

• In most cases homeowners can now have these cracks fixed permanently without the need for costly, disruptive excavation using low-pressure injection of epoxy or polyurethane foam repair materials. Even if a crack is not leaking now, eventually water will find it, said by a manufacturer of epoxies and polyurethane foams for all types of foundation crack repair. In the Midwest, crack injection has been an accepted way of tackling these repairs for many years, and more and more foundation repair contractors around the country are adopting the technique because it is cost-effective, reliable, and permanent.

• Another very good method to fix your basement leaking program is DryTrak, which is designed to remove seepage from the floor-wall joint. Epoxy seals DryTrak to the top of the basement floor. In a baseboard system, weep holes are drilled into the floor-wall joint or directly into the wall if it is a block wall. A system of hollow, durable vinyl baseboard is then epoxied to the floor. Please note that DryTrak is not recommended for basements that may have leaking floor cracks, unleveled floors, or severely cracked floors.

-article by Andrew Leung

If you would like to speak to a basement remodeling and home theater installation specialist please contact Select Basement Waterproofing and Better Homes and Basements toll free at 877-548-3889 at your convenience.

Question: I would like to repaint my kitchen, but have a question. The walls have some mold on them despite the use of a dehumidifier in the basement. Is there an additive or special paint I can use to prevent mold and fungus buildup with the new paint?



Answer: From what the experts – residential painters and remodeling contractors – say, you’ll have to first determine the cause of the moisture that provides the medium for mold to grow.

Although most paint manufacturers are producing products with mold-growth inhibitors – Zinsser, Sherwin-Williams, and Benjamin Moore, to name three – and designed for high-moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms, just covering over the problem isn’t enough.

I asked my remodeling experts if they could explain to me how the presence of a dehumidifier in the basement would control moisture in the kitchen. One said it would matter only if the kitchen were in the basement or the dehumidifier were a whole-house unit.

Frankly, without adequate ventilation, what happens in the kitchen stays there. Cooking produces great quantities of moisture; on warm or hot days, moisture condenses on walls. Combined with grease from cooking, it also can easily darken the color of the walls.

There’s another point my experts bring up. More often than not, the mold you see is an outward and visible sign of a problem behind the walls. There could be a leak bringing moisture behind the walls, and only now are you seeing evidence of it.

Simply covering the problem with a mold-inhibiting paint, no matter how good that paint is, will not solve it in the long term.

I realize that getting rid of mold is very expensive – sometimes requiring the remodeling contractor to tear everything down to the studs (and sometimes even the studs are covered) – but you’ll need to find a reputable company to look behind the walls.

If the mold is indeed just on the surface of the walls, then you’ll need to look into doing something about properly ventilating the kitchen.
Make sure you do these things before you head for the paint store or home center.

Home improvement trends. Better Homes and Gardens magazine has unveiled its home improvement trends for 2010. As expected, today’s projects fall into the must-do rather than want-to-do category.
Speaking at the International Builders Show in January, Eliot Nusbaum, executive editor for home design, said “the focus is now on low-cost improvements that will pack a big punch.”

With only 16 percent of 2,300 magazine readers surveyed saying “now is the right time to spend” on home improvements, more than half are focusing their efforts on needed repairs and maintenance, Nusbaum said.

Three-quarters say the economy has had an effect on their home improvement plans, with about half of those surveyed having changed their plans during the last year.

Smaller projects prove to be the most popular, such as painting a room (54 percent); replacing or adding flooring or carpeting (38 percent), decorating or redecorating a room (35 percent), and landscaping the yard (30 percent).

Energy efficiency is also a focus of home projects, Nusbaum said. Those who responded to the survey favored installation of Energy Star windows and doors (34 percent), high-efficiency heating and cooling systems (31 percent), and Energy Star appliances (31 percent).

No soap. The Soap and Detergent Association will become the American Cleaning Institute in June, coinciding with a major redesign and launch of its Web site, www.cleaning101.com.

Decluttering. From ShopSmart’s March issue, here’s a tip about desks for those who “derive a sense of serenity from a clean, spare work surface”: Limit the color palette. Keep desk accessories within a limited color range to maintain calm. Separate your stuff. Use drawer organizers or modular drawer inserts for supplies and papers.
ShopSmart refers to these folks as “innies,” because they put things away.

By Al Heavens- Inquirer Real Estate Columnist

If you would like to speak to a basement remodeling and home theater installation specialist please contact Select Basement Waterproofing and Better Homes and Basements toll free at 877-548-3889 at your convenience.

You have always wanted a home theater ever since you dropped your jaw watching that television show showcasing the homes of the rich and famous. You have finally considered converting that extra room, also known as your basement, into your own home theater. You have already your budget straightened up and in fact gone shopping. You have invested in pieces after careful deliberations. And you are finally ready to pop some corn, prop up your feet, lay back, relax and watch some movies, home theater style. Or are you?



Ventilation Concerns
Have you tackled the ventilation issue? Having chosen the basement as your home theater, because really you had no other use for the extra space, you will have entirely different ventilation concerns. It is the basement and most probably it was constructed in such a way that the builders never thought you will be using the space for a room that you will be spending hours on and in. The furnace was installed in such a way that it heats up all upstairs room and not really the basement. Air ducts will most probably be constructed within the ceiling of the basement. You will end up watching a movie with a hot head and freezing toes.

Before starting that movie marathon, be sure that you have taken care of this problem. Have the ducts removed and placed near the floor of the basement or if that seems too costly for you, invest in a reliable space heater.

Humidity Issues
Your basement walls will be surrounded by damp underground dirt, leaving your basement very humid than you need and want. Too much humidity will damage your equipment, they may look fine on the outside but the real damage is done on the internal components. Without taking care of this issue, you might as well destroy your home theater equipment yourself. Another issue with a very high humidity percentage is that any atmosphere with a 65% humidity or higher is the breeding ground for molds. With molds, you will be slowly killing yourself while you are having that movie marathon of yours.

Make sure that your basement walls are treated with a waterproofing solution to prevent the moisture from the ground to seep into your basement. Or install drywalls to cover the concrete. Invest in a good humidifier to keep the humidity in safe levels.

Screen Size and Room Size Ratio
The bigger you go with the screen size will not always mean the better. If the screen is too big for the room dimensions, you risk eye strain and expose yourself to too much radiation. Be sure to have the proportions right. A little Internet research will give you the optimum viewing experience while still taking care of health issues.

Before you start having all nighters or hosting movie marathons in that home theater of yours, be sure that it is safe for you and your guests to stay in there for extended periods of time. This way you can truly allow yourself to lay back and relax.

Author Resource: Circle Cross Ranch Real Estate, Short Sale Houses in Ahwatukee AZ and Rancho El Dorado Homes for Sale can offer you a whole deal of information about the real estate market. Whether you want to sell your house, buy a property or rent one, getting all the information that you need will give you a great advantage.

By Faith Warner-ibtimes.com

If you would like to speak to a basement remodeling and home theater installation specialist please contact Select Basement Waterproofing and Better Homes and Basements toll free at 877-548-3889 at your convenience.

Vinyl siding has limitations. It is prone to impact damage (the photo shows damage due to a hail storm), melts when exposed to extreme heat and becomes increasingly brittle as it gets cold. But even in the summer if a baseball or golf ball hits it, your vinyl siding can break or crack.

Then what? With colors and textures often not found in nature, matching existing vinyl siding can be hard to achieve. And without knowledge of how to separate the strips of siding, you’ll never get them apart. Well, don’t worry. I’ll show you how to repair damaged vinyl siding for under $10 (if you have spare siding material). And I’ll also let you know where you can find discontinued siding styles and colors so that repair looks great!

Introduction to Vinyl Siding Repair
Vinyl siding is the most fragile of all siding materials and besides melting when exposed to extreme heat, it will become brittle in cold weather. When cold, vinyl is especially prone to impact damage such as cracking or breaking apart. Repairing small sections of vinyl siding can be an expensive proposition if you have a repair technician come out for a house call. A contractor can charge $300 or more for the vinyl siding repair.

But don’t worry. You’re going to learn how to make the vinyl siding repair for a small fraction of that price. And if you have a spare section of siding still available and don’t have to buy it, this repair will cost you less than $10.

Needed Tools and Materials
• Section of Matching Vinyl Siding
• Vinyl Siding Zip Tool
• Tin Snips
• Pry Bar
• Claw Hammer
• Galvanized Nails
• Utility Knife
• Carpenter’s Square or Metal Straight Edge

Getting replacement vinyl siding that matches your existing siding will either be the easiest or most difficult part of the repair. Besides coming in textures and colors not found in nature (like some of the above), vinyl siding patterns and colors can be discontinued which makes it difficult to match.
If you have vinyl siding left over from the original installation then it’s easy to get the replacement stock.

If you have an older vinyl siding installation then you need to take a sample of what you have on the home to a nearby contractor siding supply for a match.

But what if you can’t find a match? Well, an interesting service I’ve found that can analyze your vinyl siding and find you a match is called SidingMatch.com. For $100 they will analyze your vinyl siding and provide you a complete siding description and distributor location so you can purchase your replacement vinyl siding. They can even help you if your vinyl siding design is discontinued.

Vinyl siding is thin, flexible, moves with variations in outside temperature and relies on being interlocked at the top and bottom to achieve its weather tightness. As you will soon see, it is the technique used in the interlocking process that is the trick to removing and installing the siding.

It is fastened to the house with nails driven through elongated holes in the nail hem. However it is CRITICAL that the nails not be driven tight against the nail hem or else the siding cannot move with temperature changes and will buckle. This is the most common error made in vinyl siding installation.

You need to make sure there is a 1/32″ gap between the nail head and the vinyl siding(about the thickness of a dime). To attach or to separate vinyl siding requires a special siding removal tool called a zip tool. Let’s review how to use this tool in the next section.

To access and remove the damaged section of vinyl siding you must first unlock the siding above and below the damaged section.
• Using a zip tool, unlock the vinyl siding above the damaged section by inserting the curved tip of the tool blade under the end of the overlapping panel and hook onto the back lip of the buttlock.
• Then pulling the tool downward while sliding the tool away from the end continue separating the panel all the way across its length.
• See the Tutorial How to Use a Zip Tool – Vinyl Siding Removal Tool.
• Repeat for the bottom edge of the damaged panel.
• Remove the nails holding the strip directly above the damaged area.
• Remove the nails by using a pry bar.

Next you will have to cut out the damaged section of vinyl siding.
• Using a pair of tin snips, cut out the damaged section of siding.
• Use care not to cut the top or bottom edges of the panels above or below the section you are removing.

Next you will cut and install a section of replacement vinyl siding for the repair.
• To make speedy work of cutting the siding, use a quality layout square like the Stanley Quick® Square that will give you a clean, straight right angle cut when cutting the replacement section of vinyl siding.
• Cut the siding using a utility knife with a new blade.
• Cut the replacement piece of vinyl siding about 3″ longer than the section you removed. This gives you about 1½” of overlap on both ends.
• You must also cut back the nail hem about 2″ on each side of the replacement panel so it fits into the space of the removed section.
• Slide the replacement section into position. Hook the replacement section’s bottom edge (buttlock) into the lock at the top edge (top lock) of the piece below. Push the replacement up until it snaps into place.
• Space the nails about 12″ apart and center them in the elongated holes in the nail hem.
• Leaving a 1/32″ gap between the nail head and the siding, nail the replacement panel into place using galvanized nails with heads a minimum of 5/16″ in diameter and with a shank of 1/8″ in diameter.
• The nails must be long enough so they can penetrate at least 3/4″ into framing or furring.

Once you have the new patch installed, you need to use the zip tool to relock the top edge of the vinyl siding.

-by Bob Formisano, About.com Guide to Home Repair

If you would like to speak to a siding and roofing specialist like Better Homes and Basements please visit them online or contact them toll free at 877-548-3889.

Vinyl siding interlocks at the top and bottom of each siding panel. That’s how it keeps wind driven rain out of the wall. In order to remove (or install) a piece of siding, you need to use a special hand tool called a Zip Tool. The zip tool safely separates the top and bottom adjoining / interlocking panels.

To properly use the zip tool to remove or replace a panel of vinyl siding, proceeds as follows:

• Wedge the curved tip of the tool blade under the end of the overlapping panel and hook onto the back lip of the buttlock.
• You can try starting at an end of the panel where you will find a slightly enlarged hole for the tool to slide into, or you can look for a somewhat loose spot in the panel joint.
• Unlock the siding by exerting downward pressure and slide the tool along the length of the siding panel exposing the nail row of siding you want to remove.
• Sometimes you can unzip the siding with your finger once it is started with the zip tool.
• Reverse procedure to relock siding panel.

If you would like to speak to a siding and roofing specialist like Better Homes and Basements please visit them online or contact them toll free at 877-548-3889.

Nothing will impact the appearance of your home more dramatically than the exterior siding you choose. As you shop for exterior siding, look for a siding material that suits the style of your house and also fits your lifestyle. Listed here are the most popular materials for exterior siding, along with links to resources to help you choose exterior siding.

1. Stucco Siding
Traditional stucco is cement combined with water and inert materials such as sand and lime. Many homes built after the 1950s use a variety of synthetic materials that resemble stucco. Some synthetic stuccos have been prone to problems. However, a quality synthetic stucco will prove durable. Tint the stucco the color you want, and you may never need to paint.

2. Stone Veneer Siding
If you think of ancient monuments and temples, you know that stone is the most durable of all building materials. Granite, limestone, slate, and other types of stone are beautiful and nearly impervious to the weather. Unfortunately, they are also extremely expensive. Precast stone veneers and facings are more affordable. Some stone veneers look quite genuine, while others are clearly artificial. Austin Stonefrom Owens Corning Cultured Stone® is one respected brand of precast stone veneers.

3. Cement Fiber Siding
Fiber cement siding can have the appearance of wood, stucco, or masonry. This durable, natural-looking material is often called by the brand names HardiPlank® and HardiPanel®. If you want the look of authentic wood with a bit less maintenance, cement fiber is a good option. Fiber cement siding is fireproof, termite-proof, and may have a warranty up to fifty years. Some older homes have Cement Asbestos Siding made from Portland cement and asbestos fibers. Removing that type of siding can be hazardous, so remodelers often apply a new, modern siding on top.

4. Wood Clapboard Siding
Modern science has given us many synthetic wood-look products, and yet solid wood (usually cedar, pine, spruce, redwood, cypress, or Douglas fir) remain favorite choices for finer homes. With periodic care, wood siding will outlast vinyl and other pretenders. As with cedar shingle siding, wood clapboards can be stained rather than painted. Many wood frame houses built centuries ago still look beautiful today.

5. Brick and Brick Veneer Siding
Made of fired clay, brick comes in a wide variety of earthy, eye-pleasing colors. Although it is expensive, brick is desirable because it can last centuries and probably won’t need any patching or repairs for the first twenty-five years. Quality brick veneers are also attractive and durable, although they don’t have the longevity of solid brick.

6. Cedar Shingle Siding
Homes sided in cedar shingles (also called “shakes”) blend beautifully with wooded landscapes. Made of natural cedar, the shingles are usually stained browns, grays, or other earthen colors. Shakes offer the natural look of real wood, but usually require less maintenance than wood clapboard. By using stain rather than paint, you can minimize peeling.

7. Engineered Wood Siding
Engineered wood, or composite wood, is made with wood products and other materials. Oriented strand board (OSB), hardboard, and veneered plywood are examples of engineered wood products. Engineered wood usually comes in panels that are easy and inexpensive to install. The panels may be molded to create the look of traditional clapboards. Because the textured grain is uniform, engineered wood does not look exactly like real wood. Still, the appearance is more natural than vinyl or aluminum.

8. Seamless Steel
Seamless steel siding is very strong and resists shrinking and bulging when the temperatures change. The siding is custom fit to the exact measurements of your house. You can purchase steel siding with a wood-look texture. Or, for a modern house, consider the industrial look of corrugated steel.

9. Aluminum
You may think of aluminum siding as an old-fashioned option, but some builders offer it as an alternative to vinyl. Both materials are easy to maintain and fairly durable. Aluminum can dent and fade, but it won’t crack the way vinyl will. Also, aluminum is fireproof and is not usually considered harmful to your health or the environment.

10. Vinyl Siding
Vinyl is made from a PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic. Unlike wood or cedar, it won’t rot or flake. Vinyl is usually less expensive to purchase and install than most other siding materials. There are, however, drawbacks. Vinyl can crack, fade, or grow dingy over time. Vinyl is also controversial because of environmental concerns.

11. Vinyl Coatings
If you like the idea of vinyl but don’t like the look of vinyl panels, another option is to have a pro spray on a liquid PVC coating. Made from polymers and resins, the paint-like coating is about as thick as a credit card when it dries. Liquid PVC became widely available only a few years ago, and reviews are mixed. The damage caused by poor application can be devastating.

-by Jackie Craven, About.com Guide

If you would like to speak to a siding and roofing specialist like Better Homes and Basements please visit them online or contact them toll free at 877-548-3889.

The advertisements seem so enticing. Install vinyl siding, they say, and you will never have to paint your house again. Unlike wood or cedar, this durable plastic will not rot or flake. Vinyl is available in several dozen colors, and can mimic architectural details that were once made from wood. It’s no wonder that vinyl has become the most popular siding material in the United States and is quickly gaining momentum around the world.

But, wait! What the ads don’t tell you can cost you dearly. Before you install vinyl siding over wood clapboard or cedar shingles, consider these important factors.

1. Health Concerns
Vinyl is made from a PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastic resin that is thought to cause cancer in humans. Although vinyl may be safe while it is on your home, some scientists believe that manufacturing and disposing vinyl is hazardous to our health and to the environment.

Accidental fires in vinyl-sided buildings are more dangerous because vinyl produces toxic fumes when heated. In addition, doctors are reporting a high incidence of neurological damage, respiratory problems, liver and kidney failure, birth defects, and cancer among people who work in or live near factories where vinyl is produced.

To learn more about the ways vinyl siding impacts our health and the environment, watch the award-winning documentary film Blue Vinyl, available on dvd. Or, read what the environmental group Greenpeace has to say about vinyl. For an opposing view, read the arguments written by the Vinyl Institute.

2. Durability
Advertisements often imply that vinyl siding is permanent. It is true that vinyl will last a very long time. (That’s why it is so difficult to dispose of safely.) In extreme weather, however, vinyl is less durable than wood and masonry. Violent wind can get underneath the thin sheets of vinyl siding and lift a panel from the wall. Windblown debris and strong hail can puncture vinyl. New developments are making vinyl is stronger and less brittle, but the plastic sheets will still crack or break if struck by a lawnmower or snowblower. Damage cannot be patched; you will need to replace a panel.

Liquid vinyl coatings, which are sprayed on like paint, may prove to be more durable than vinyl panels. However, liquid vinyl coatings are difficult to apply correctly. Numerous problems have been reported. (See Miracle Liquid Siding Products, on Ask the Builder.)

3. Maintenance
Wood must be painted or stained; vinyl requires no paint. However, it’s not exactly true to say that vinyl is maintenance-free. To maintain its fresh appearance, vinyl siding should be washed once a year. Any wooden window sashes and trim will still require routine painting, and ladders leaning against the house can scuff or crack the vinyl siding.

Unlike wood and masonry, vinyl siding presents its own breed of maintenance worries. Moisture trapped beneath the vinyl siding will accelerate rot, promote mold and mildew, and invite insect infestations. Left uncorrected, dampness in the walls will cause wallpaper and paint inside the house to blister and peel. To avoid hidden decay, you will want frequently recaulk joints between the vinyl siding and adjacent trim. Roof leaks, faulty gutters, or other sources of moisture should be repaired without delay. Vinyl siding may not be a wise option for an older home with a chronically damp cellar.

4. Energy Conservation
Be wary of a vinyl salesperson who promises lower energy bills. Even with thick Styrofoam backing, a vinyl panel cannot provide significant insulation. Regardless of the type of siding you choose, you may want to install additional insulation inside the walls.

5. Color
Vinyl is available in more colors than ever before, and new vinyl siding does not fade as quickly as older vinyl. Also, the pigmentation is baked through instead of applied to the surface, so vinyl won’t show scratches. Nevertheless, depending on the quality of vinyl you buy, expect some fading after five years or so. Time and weather will also alter the gloss of your vinyl siding. If a panel is damaged, the new replacement panel will not be an exact match.

After you have lived in your home for a number of years, you may grow weary of its color – especially if the vinyl has grown dim and faded. You can paint the vinyl, but then the vinyl is no longer maintenance-free. In general, the color of your vinyl house is the color it will always be, until you install new siding.

6. Historic Preservation
With a careful installation of a better-quality vinyl, the siding will truly fool the eye. Yet no matter how closely vinyl resembles wood, any artificial siding will diminish the historic authenticity of an older home. In many cases, the original trim and ornamental details are covered or removed. In some installations, the original clapboard is completely removed or seriously damaged. Vinyl siding will always alter the overall texture and proportions of the house, changing the depth of moldings and replacing natural wood grain with factory-made embossed patterns.

7. Property Values
As the quality and variety of vinyl improves, acceptance is growing. For new construction in the United States, vinyl is becoming increasingly common. On the other hand, many home shoppers still perceive vinyl as a tacky shortcut or a cover-up for possible problems. Homes built before 1940 lose their historic appeal when their authentic siding is covered. Before you install vinyl over wood clapboard or cedar shingles, look closely at other homes in your neighborhood. In a neighborhood of historic homes or upscale houses constructed primarily of wood and masonry, adding vinyl siding can diminish a home’s appeal to potential buyers.

-by Jackie Craven, About.com Guide

If you would like to speak to a siding and roofing specialist like Better Homes and Basements please visit them online or contact them toll free at 877-548-3889.