FAQ’s
Remodeling FAQ’s
Should I get three estimates?
That depends. If you have lived a long time in your neighborhood and know a reliable contractor, then go with him. A realtor is often a very good resource for finding a good contractor, and the realtor who sold you your home is always willing to help. If you are new to the neighborhood, then it is always a good idea to get three estimates. Remember, going with the cheapest is not always the best. Ask to see some of the contractors work and ask for references. A reputable contractor will be more than glad to assist you.
Do I need a permit?
Yes. Any major rebuilding requires that you have the necessary permits to do so. A good contractor will assist you in this process.
What can I expect to pay for a basement remodel?
Research shows that the cost for a full remodel will run $30 to $40 per square foot. Always have a budget in place before calling a contractor. Research shows the average build out runs between $18,000 and $35,000.00. Be certain these funds are available before contacting the contractor.
I have three estimates, and they vary widely in price. Why?
Prices should vary somewhat between contractors. Remember, they want your business, and often attempt to underbid one another. If you see a big gap between estimates, its time to sit down with the contactor and ask some questions. Perhaps the contractor did not fully understand your needs. Ask the contractor to explain fully the bid, and if he is vague about any questions, move on to the next in line. Always get explanations about costs in writing, not just a verbal agreement from the contractor.
I want to add extra bedrooms in my basement. Do I need windows?
Absolutely. Although fire codes vary from locale to locale, the rule is that the windows should be wide enough for a person to gain access to the outside. They must also be a minimum height from the floor. Plan on a window that is large enough for a fireman to get in through carrying breathing apparatus, and you will be in good shape.
There is a large steel beam in my basement. Can I remove it?
You certainly can, but should give this a great deal of consideration. These beams are extremely heavy, and because they are in the basement, can only be removed by man power and jacks. A hole will need to be made in an exterior wall to remove it, and there certainly isn’t a crane to help! Remember, this beam maintains the levelness of your home, and keeps it from sagging. To remove it is a gigantic task, and it still has to be replaced with support that is efficient enough to maintain structural integrity. Only an engineer can figure that out for you. Consider instead turning the beam into a soffit by boxing in with drywall or similar material. What do contractors recommend? Don’t do it!
My basement seems damp. What should I do before I remodel?
Before you begin any basement remodel, you must deal with moisture. First, check fro proper drainage around the exterior of the home. A proper installation has drains installed at footing level, sloped between 1 and 2 inches per 10 feet, to direct water away from the house. If these are not present in an existing home, prepare them before beginning the remodel. After the trenches are dug, apply waterproof membranes to the foundation wall as you backfill the trench. On interior walls, coat with Xypex, a crystalline sealant that is excellent for controlling moisture. Always be sure to keep a dehumidifier running in your basement at all times.
My basement floor isn’t level. What should I do?
Often basement floor are purposely built on a slope to provide drainage in a basement. To cure this, you can do several things. Home supply stores such as Lowe’s sell a self-leveling mortar that fixes this problem and is the easiest. It is mixed with water and spread with a squeegee that has adjustable nubs to bring the floor to level. Otherwise, a sub floor should be built that is level.
Roofing FAQ’s
What kind of styles do you offer?
We offer a wide variety of colors and styles to choose from.
What type of warranty do you offer on your Roofing?
Depending on the type of shingles you purchase, our roofing warranty can last from 10 to 30 years.
How can I get samples of your products?
Our sales representatives can come out to your home and help you determine what style of roofing would be best for your home. They can provide samples of our products.
What do I need to do to prepare for the installation of my new roof?
Remove all loose items from walls and shelves. The constant hammering may cause enough vibration to shake these items down. Make sure to clear your driveway and items directly surrounding your home. Also, please see that electrical power is provided to the outside of your home. If exterior plugs are not available, please run an extension cord through a window or door.
How will new shingles look on my roof?
Choosing Better Homes and Basements roofing is one of the best ways to improve the visual appeal and market value of your home. Their rich, dimensional appearance makes a statement that few other roofing materials can.
What is the best roof?
Wouldn’t it be simple if there was one answer to all roofing problems? Unfortunately there is no magic pill in the roofing market that solves all roofing problems. What the market does offer is a wide selection of good products, each having attributes and faults. The key to selecting the proper roof system is identifying the specific roof design parameters of your building, and how each roof system meets those parameters. A simple example would be: If a building has very heavy foot and wheel traffic on the roof, a 45 mil single ply membrane probably would not be advisable, due to its limited puncture resistance.
Why does my roof leak?
Well a cynic might answer that there are two kinds of roofs, those that leak and those that will leak. Roofs leak from a break in the waterproofing layer, sometimes caused by mechanical damage (ie, someone dropping an HVAC access panel on the roof), sometimes from an opening in the sealant, such as pitch pans and caulking, and sometimes from deterioration or defects in the roofing material. The key roof management task is leak avoidance. Find and correct defects before they leak.
How long should a roof last?
Like any building component, roofs degrade at different rates depending on a large number of factors: the quality of original construction, the level of abuse, the level of maintenance, appropriateness of design, etc. So how long should a roof last? We have seen poorly designed and installed roofs go as few as six or seven years before they failed, and we have seen old coal tar built up roofs that were over 60 years old. Most building owners, roofing contractors and designers feel 20 years is an acceptable service life.
Can I cover over my existing roof?
Installing a roof over the top of an existing roof is generally acceptable under these guidelines: 1) A building cannot have more than two roofs; 2) No wet insulation can be left in place; 3) The roof structure must be able to handle the additional roof load; 4) The new roof must be attached to the roof deck to meet wind loads (it is not generally acceptable to adhere the new roof to the old roof).
How many roofs can I put on?
Most building codes allow a structure to have two roof membranes in place, but not a third. The codes are also now requiring all roof layers to be removed once the two roof limit has been reached, when looking to install the third roof.
When is the best time to put on a new roof?
This question could be interpreted two ways, so we’ll answer each question.
How much does a new roof cost?
Before we can tell you how much your job will cost, we will need to know what it involves. We understand your concerns about budget and keeping costs under control. We have the same concerns ourselves. Therefore, the best way to estimate a cost is to have a Hansons sales representative come to your home and take a look at your roof.
What is an architectural or dimensional shingle?
Unlike standard 3-tab, or strip shingles, which are single layer in design, a growing number of shingles are multi-layered or laminated.
What is an asphalt shingle?
Asphalt shingles come in two basic types: fiber glass and organic.
What is an organic shingle?
Organic shingles have a thick, organic felt base reinforcement, the felt is saturated with a soft, flexible asphalt. Organic shingles are tough, durable shingles with excellent durability in extreme cold weather and good performance characteristics in extreme heat.
What is a fiber glass shingle?
Waterproofing FAQ’s
Undoubtedly you have questions regarding the process of waterproofing and cleaning your home from our New Jersey Basement Waterproofers. Here are many of the questions you may have for us, answered right up front:
What is the best way to find a Trustworthy Waterproofing Contractor these days?
References are certainly helpful. However, if you can visit a project while in progress - is certainly more impressive. Besides, you can really appreciate all the hard work the goes into basement waterproofing. Another good resource is: The Better Business Bureau and the Division of Consumer Affairs. Most of their records date back 3-years. Keep in mind most contractors have 1000′s of past customers, choosing a contractor with a clean slate is better than speaking with several 100′s of customers. A clean slate is hard to achieve these days, wouldn’t you agree.
Will a “french drain” solve all my seepage and moisture problems?
It’s a good start, but, it will not solve all your issues You need to HydroTex the walls and floors for a 100% Dry all the time design. The nickname “French Drain” is so misunderstood. Most people think they have a “French Drain”, regarding to the gap around the perimeter of their basement floor. Sorry! That’s a HydroGap – known as a floating floor. A French drain is a sub-soil piping system parallel to the footer (not on top of the footer)connecting into a sump pump.
Is there anything I can do to solve my problem before I call a Waterproofing Professional?
Yes, call your builder and complain. Cleaning your gutters, extending down spouts, and re-grading sounds like good proactive steps; if it only rains on your roof. But, truthfully, you’re better off buying some waterproofing dirt. The dirt (soil) is the problem. The loose backfill packed around your foundation walls is the path of least resistance. Let’s go all the way back to the day they built your home. Your builder dug a hole and put your home in it – without sealing the walls, the footer, the cove joint and slab - before backfilling. In addition to: never addressing the false table of water, which is the more problematic issue – contributing to hydrostatic pressure.
So, what are your options, and what can you do?
A) Rent a back hoe and dig around the perimeter of your foundation down to the footer. Keeping in mind – for every 2 feet you dig down, you dig 1 foot wide. Then power washing all the dirt and debris. You can start apply a rubberize coating and a backer board. Next, you will install an exterior drainage system. Back filled with ¾ inch stone. And forget to wrap all the stone a pipe into a burrito with a filter membrane. The next step is very important. Make sure your discharge lines can be gravity feed to daylight. Now you’re ready to proceed to the interior. So, exchange the back hoe for a Jack Hammer.
B) Roll up your sleeves, rent a jack hammer, open the perimeter of the basement floor, remove 10 ton of concrete, carry 10 ton of concrete, rent a dump truck to haul, 10 ton of concrete, dig a trench 9″ deep and 12″ wide, parallel to the footer, dig the sump pits 24″ deep, connect the sump to the discharge line, install the check valve, lay the membrane, install a drainage pipe – on a 3 degree bubble, backfill the trench with 3/4 washed blue stone, (drill weep holes in every cavity if you have a block wall) install a mira drain, mix the cement, re-concrete the floor, rent a machine to coat the walls with a rubber membrane - or hire my company to do it all in one day. ”Priceless”
Is there a “quick-fix” for my water problem?
Yes! Move somewhere else, backfill the basement, or fix it in one day. Things like waterproofing paints and submersible pumps will only handle the symptoms. Waterproofing paints can cause the problem to get worse. Facing the Facts” written by Consumer Reports states, “Waterproofing a basement is time-consuming, messy and expensive. Many homeowners are stubborn procrastinators and know it alls . And therein lies a trap – of a specious promise of an easy solution”.
Aren’t all Waterproofing Guarantees the same = Lifetime and transferable?
Absolutely not! And the best guarantees are the one’s you never have to use. However, most waterproofing companies I know do not guarantee the foundation walls to be dry. Why you ask? Good question. How can you guarantee something you have never touched?
If you look deep enough, their guarantee only covers the wall cove joint area. Make sure that the warranty clearly states that the foundation walls, wall cove areas and entire floor are covered against water penetration. And that the length of the guarantee is time sensitive.
If I have a water problem but do not see any visible mold should I still fungicide.
A wet/damp basement is a prime breeding ground for mold. Mold problems can sometimes be undetected unless you are a microbial specialist. Are you familiar with that basement smell? That smell is a mycotoxin. Mycotoxins are gases produce from certain molds. Most basements reek of mycotoxins between late April and October, do to high levels of relative humidity. If you don’t own a hygrometer – you’ll never know how much moisture you really have – but your nose will. Mold and mycotoxins go hand and hand when the relative humidity spikes above 50%, you got mold. Here lies in the problem. If it never rains again for another 100 years, you will still have a relative humidity issue do to thermal bypass. Thermal bypass is the air omitting through the basement walls, mixing with the ambient air in the basement. In layman’s terms, cold air mixing with warn air; hence condensation. Allow me to explain: the thermal temperature 4 foot below the surface is 55 degrees, the average temperature in the basement is 69 degrees. Combine a cold and warm temperature – bingo, moisture or better yet, Water you can’t see.
What is the best way to resolve a mold problem?
Remove and abate all contaminated items. Stop the water, fungice, Hepa Vac, control the relative humidity below 44%, remove the food source, coat the walls and floors with an antimicrobial EPA register product, and dehumidify into a self contained unit that empties into a sealed sump. Please note that bleach should not be used to resolve a mold problem on porous surfaces. Bleach is 94% water and 6% chlorine. The chlorine will dissipate in 15 seconds, and water in 45 seconds. What you have just cleaned – you just feed.
If I clean out my basement before the work is performed can I save some money?
The answer is yes, if you are planning a yard sale of a flee market in the future. Otherwise, all we require is a 6 foot path around the perimeter – so please move all personal items and furniture to the center of the room. Do expect some dust, even though with will do our best with ventilation machines. Every professional will stage negative air machines and containment, in addition to, covering your items with 6ml plastic – but again, do expect some dust from jack hammering the floor. We do recommended removing all electronic equipment from the basement prior to work scheduled. If you are unable to perform any tasks promised - don’t worry, we will move them for you at a reasonable fee.
Vinyl Siding FAQ’s
Why should I reside my home?
New siding will rejuvenate an older home, give it a completely new look, and significantly reduce cost for home upkeep and maintenance. It will protect the home from elements and eliminate the need for costly, frequent repainting.
What types of siding materials can I choose from?
Among the siding materials available today are vinyl, aluminum, steel and hardboard. Vinyl siding is particularly popular because it adds to the value and beauty of the home, requires minimal upkeep and can be installed over most existing sidewalls. It simulates the appearance of wood, and is the most durable, practical and efficient siding on the market.
What exactly is vinyl siding?
Vinyl siding is manufactured from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), a revolutionary building material that has replaced metal as the prime material for many industrial, commercial and consumer products. PVC has many years of successful performance as a construction material, providing impact-resistance, rigidity and strength.
Can the color peel or flake off?
No. There is no paint to peel, flake off or blister.
Does vinyl siding offer any insulating value?
Not enough to notice but the 3/8 backer board installed under the siding will offer some and more importantly the combination of the backer board and siding will significantly decrease air infiltration.
If painting isn’t required, then how do I keep my vinyl siding clean?
Usually all you will need is a to rinse your siding down annually with a garden hose. Every few years professional pressure washing with the appropriate cleaner will restore your siding to like new!
Does vinyl siding contribute to rotting, moisture buildup or termite infestation?
Vinyl siding will not cause any of these problems, but neither will it cure problems that existed before the siding was installed. Vinyl siding can be applied with assurance that it will not promote rotting, moisture or termite infestation. Indeed, the siding itself is impervious to rotting, and does not attract insects. It is designed to allow for proper ventilation. Pre-punched weep-holes along the bottom butt edge of the siding allow condensation to drain out.
What effect will vinyl siding have on television or radio reception?
None at all.
How does its price compare with other replacement siding materials?
Vinyl siding is competitively priced with other siding materials. When you consider that you no longer need to have your house repainted every few years, the cost is very economical and eventually will be recovered by eliminating repainting costs. Vinyl siding is designed to last 40 years or more. Consult individual manufacturers for specific warranties.
Mold Remediation FAQ’s
What is mold?
Mold is a fungus or plant grown on anything penetrated by water, or has relative humidity of 51% or more. Mold gives off a musty, damp smell due to the releasing of carbon monoxide.
How do I know when I have a serious problem?
Most problems are usually noticeable by a seepage of water through the wall & floor. Also, discoloration or spots of mold growth appear on surfaces. Strong, musty odors and peeling or chipping of paint are also a very good indication that you have a problem.
How long will my job take?
Every job is different, and the time varies. Typically, we allow 1-2 days to complete preparations, the actual work, and cleanup; which is prompt and thorough.
What will be involved on my part?
All customers need to do is move their valuables out of the area being worked on. After that, just sit back and relax while the crew takes care of everything in the most efficient way.
What happens if problems occur after the job?
Our company guarantees our work fully and has never had any problems in the past. However, should anything happen to our work, we will come back and do everything possible to fix the problem and make sure it doesn’t happen again — all at no cost to the customer.
How long is too long to delay the work?
Delaying the problem has long term effects. For example water pressure builds up behind the walls, under the concrete, etc. If not released, structural damage, mold, & odors will occur. Also, the cause of sickness & allergies can absolutely be linked to mold toxins in the air.
